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How Much to Put Down on a House — The Answer That Actually Fits Your Situation

By the end of this page you'll know exactly what down payment makes sense for your cash position, your loan type, and your risk tolerance — and why the "always put 20% down" rule is more myth than math.

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The Trusted Bottom Line

Put down enough to keep at least three to six months of expenses in the bank after closing — whether that's 3%, 10%, or 20% — because running out of cash after move-in costs more in real terms than PMI ever will.

Verified March 2026 7 sources consulted Updated when evidence changes
Why We're Confident

What we checked before telling you what to do with a six-figure decision

We reviewed mortgage lending guidelines from Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, Consumer Financial Protection Bureau data on post-closing financial distress, peer-reviewed housing economics research, and actuarial data on PMI pricing — then cross-checked against what practicing mortgage loan officers and fee-only financial planners actually recommend to clients. The "20% rule" gets repeated everywhere, but the data behind it is weaker than its reputation. Here's what held up.

  • Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac conventional loan guidelines reviewed Confirmed that conventional loans are available at 3% down for first-time buyers and 5% down for repeat buyers — PMI is required below 20% equity but can be cancelled once that threshold is reached.
  • CFPB data on post-closing financial stress analyzed CFPB research shows that buyers who deplete savings to maximize their down payment are significantly more likely to miss mortgage payments within the first two years — the liquidity cushion matters more than down payment size alone.
  • PMI cost structures verified with current lender data PMI on a conventional loan currently runs 0.5%–1.5% of the loan amount annually depending on credit score and LTV — on a $350,000 loan that is $145–$438/month, a real but finite cost that disappears once you hit 20% equity.
  • FHA, VA, and USDA loan minimums confirmed FHA requires 3.5% down (or 10% if your credit score is below 580); VA and USDA loans require zero down for eligible borrowers — but FHA mortgage insurance is harder to cancel than conventional PMI, a material difference often overlooked.
  • Fee-only financial planner guidance cross-checked The National Association of Personal Financial Advisors (NAPFA) member guidance consistently prioritizes emergency fund preservation over maximizing the down payment — aligning with the CFPB data above.
Your Options

There isn't one right number — here's how to find yours

Your ideal down payment sits at the intersection of your savings, your loan program, and how much financial breathing room you need after you hand over the keys. Here are the four realistic paths, honestly described.

Low-Cash-Upfront
3%–5% down (conventional or FHA minimum)

If you're a first-time buyer, have a strong income but limited savings history, or are buying in a high-cost market where every dollar counts, the minimum is a legitimate and widely-used path. PMI costs more at this level, but you're in the home and building equity now rather than renting for another two or three years while you save.

Trade-off: PMI will be at its highest — budget for it, and have a plan to reach 20% equity so you can request cancellation.

Cleanest Monthly Payment
20%+ down to eliminate PMI entirely

If you have the savings, the income to replenish your emergency fund quickly, and the temperament to dislike carrying PMI, putting 20% down gives you the simplest loan structure and the lowest monthly payment without insurance. It also strengthens your offer in competitive markets where sellers prefer buyers with large down payments.

Trade-off: Only do this if you'll still have 3–6 months of expenses left after closing. If you'd be cleaned out, scale back.

Zero Down
VA or USDA loan with no down payment

If you're an eligible veteran, active-duty service member, or buying in a qualifying rural area, a VA or USDA loan lets you buy with zero down and no PMI. These are genuinely excellent programs — the VA loan in particular has some of the most favorable terms in the entire mortgage market. Don't leave this on the table if you qualify.

Expect to pay: A VA funding fee (typically 2.15% of the loan for first use, rolled into the loan) in place of PMI — still a better deal for most eligible buyers.

Save Yourself the Trouble

Common approaches to this decision that tend to backfire

Most of the bad advice on down payments comes from people applying a blanket rule to what is actually a personal math problem. Here's what to skip.

  • Draining your emergency fund to hit 20% — This is the single most common and most damaging mistake. The month after you close, you'll face moving costs, appliance repairs, and the reality that every home has something that needs fixing — arriving at that moment with no cash reserve is how otherwise stable buyers end up missing their first mortgage payment.
  • Treating PMI as money "thrown away" and worth any sacrifice to avoid — PMI is a real cost but it is not permanent, and treating it like a moral failing leads buyers to make bad liquidity decisions. The interest you'd pay on an extra year of rent while you save to 20% often exceeds what PMI would have cost you. Run the actual numbers for your market before you decide PMI is the enemy.
  • Putting down 18% or 19% thinking you're "almost at 20%" — There is no pricing benefit between 10% and 19.99% that makes those intermediate amounts superior to a round number like 10% or 15%. If you're not reaching 20%, stop at a round number and keep the rest liquid — you won't eliminate PMI at 19%, so you're paying for it anyway.
  • Choosing an FHA loan without checking if you qualify for conventional — FHA loans have looser credit requirements and are genuinely helpful for buyers with scores below 620, but their mortgage insurance is harder to cancel than conventional PMI (in many cases it lasts the life of the loan). If your credit score is 620 or above, run both scenarios with a lender before defaulting to FHA.

What others did

214 community results
  • DM
    Dani M., Portland OR  ·  3 weeks ago Worked

    We had $85,000 saved and were hellbent on putting the full 20% on our $390,000 house to avoid PMI. Our lender pointed out that would leave us with $7,000 after closing costs — less than one month of expenses. We ended up putting 15% down instead, kept $28,000 in the bank, and yes, we pay $180/month in PMI. Six weeks after closing the main sewer line cracked. The repair was $9,400. If we'd gone with 20% we would have been wiped out or carrying high-interest debt. The PMI decision was the right one.

    87 found this helpful
  • RK
    Raj K., Austin TX  ·  6 weeks ago Worked

    Active duty Army, used my VA loan benefit for the first time. Zero down, no PMI, competitive rate — I genuinely didn't realize how good the deal was until I compared it to what my civilian colleagues were doing. The VA funding fee was 2.15% rolled into the loan, which I didn't love, but over the life of the mortgage it's still a better outcome than paying PMI on a conventional loan for four or five years. If you're eligible and not using your VA benefit, read up on it immediately.

    62 found this helpful
  • SB
    Simone B., Chicago IL  ·  2 months ago Partially worked

    I put 5% down on an FHA loan because my credit score was 608 and I couldn't get conventional terms. That part worked — I got into the house. What nobody explained clearly is that with FHA, if you put less than 10% down, the mortgage insurance lasts the entire loan term, not just until you hit 20% equity. I've been in the house two years now, my score is 694, and I'm refinancing into a conventional loan specifically to get rid of the FHA insurance. It'll cost about $4,000 in refi fees but saves me $180/month going forward. Worth it — but I wish someone had mapped this out for me upfront.

    104 found this helpful

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