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House & Home  ·  Water Leaks, Mold & Moisture

How to stop condensation on the inside of your windows all winter

By the end of this page you will know exactly why the water is appearing, what humidity level you need to target, and which steps — in order — will make it stop.

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The Trusted Bottom Line

Interior window condensation is a humidity problem, not a window problem — reduce your indoor relative humidity to 35–45% and it stops, regardless of how old your windows are.

Verified March 2026 6 sources consulted Updated when evidence changes
Why We're Confident

The physics here are settled — we just confirmed how it applies to your home

The mechanism behind interior window condensation is basic thermodynamics, documented consistently across building science research, HVAC engineering standards, and government housing agencies. Our verification focused on the practical thresholds — which humidity levels trigger condensation at which outdoor temperatures — and on confirming that the common instinct to blame the windows is, in most cases, the wrong diagnosis. We cross-referenced guidance from building science organisations, energy research bodies, and HVAC trade sources to make sure the humidity targets we give you are realistic and safe for your home's fabric as well as your health.

  • Dew-point physics confirmed Condensation forms when glass surface temperature drops below the dew point of indoor air — a relationship that is consistent and predictable across all window types.
  • Humidity-temperature thresholds verified The U.S. Department of Energy and the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation publish matching humidity-versus-outdoor-temperature charts confirming the 30–45% RH target range used here.
  • Common moisture sources cross-checked Building science research from the Building Science Corporation identifies cooking, bathing, clothes drying, and unvented crawl spaces as the dominant sources of excess winter humidity in residential buildings.
  • Window-replacement claim examined ENERGY STAR and independent building science sources confirm that higher-performance glazing raises glass surface temperature slightly but does not eliminate condensation if indoor humidity is not also reduced — the window industry's own guidance acknowledges this.
Your Options

Start with the moisture source — everything else follows from that

How aggressively you need to act depends on how high your humidity currently is and how cold your winters get — here are your four realistic paths.

Budget
Crack a window briefly each morning

Opening a window for 5–10 minutes first thing in the morning flushes humid overnight air out and brings in drier outside air. In very cold climates this is only a partial measure, but it costs nothing and noticeably reduces condensation when used alongside better ventilation habits.

Trade-off: Heat loss makes this impractical in extreme cold, and it does not fix the underlying moisture sources.

Fastest
Run a portable dehumidifier set to 40% RH

A portable dehumidifier placed in the most-affected room will reduce humidity within 24–48 hours and produce visible results on the glass almost immediately. Set the target to 40% RH and let it run until conditions stabilise.

Trade-off: Ongoing running cost and noise; treats the symptom rather than the source, so keep working on ventilation in parallel.

Professional
When to call an HVAC contractor or building inspector

If you have addressed all obvious moisture sources and humidity remains above 55% all winter, the problem may be an unvented crawl space, a failed vapour barrier, or a forced-air system that is recirculating moist air. An HVAC contractor or certified home inspector can diagnose this in a single visit.

Expect to pay: $150–$350 for a diagnostic visit; remediation costs vary widely by cause.

Save Yourself the Trouble

What people try first that doesn't fix it

These approaches are popular because they feel logical — but each one misidentifies where the problem actually lives.

  • Replacing the windows — New windows raise the glass surface temperature by a few degrees, which can marginally shift the condensation threshold, but if your indoor humidity stays elevated you will see condensation on expensive new windows within the first cold snap. Window manufacturers and ENERGY STAR both state this plainly in their condensation guidance.
  • Wiping the windows down each morning — This removes the visible water but leaves the humidity exactly as high as before; the condensation reappears the following night. It also risks promoting mould growth on the window frame and sill if done repeatedly over a winter without addressing the cause.
  • Adding window insulation film or thermal curtains — Insulating film and heavy curtains trap cold air against the glass, which actually lowers the glass surface temperature further and can make condensation worse, not better — the opposite of what most people expect when they install them.

What others did

47 community results
  • MR
    Marcus R., Minneapolis MN  ·  3 months ago Worked

    Every single window in my house was dripping by January. I bought a $14 hygrometer from the hardware store and it read 62% RH — way too high. Turned out we were drying two loads of laundry a day on a rack in the living room all winter. Moved the drying outside to a heated garage and within four days the meter was down to 41% and the windows were dry. I feel a bit foolish it took me three winters to figure this out.

    34 found this helpful
  • DK
    Danielle K., Ottawa ON  ·  5 months ago Worked

    Our bathroom exhaust fan turned out to be the main culprit — it vented into the wall cavity rather than outside, so all the shower moisture was just recirculating into the house. Had it properly vented to the exterior last fall and this has been our first condensation-free winter in seven years. Cost about $200 for the ductwork fix. Would have spent that on window treatments and gotten nowhere.

    28 found this helpful
  • TH
    Tom H., Portland OR  ·  2 months ago Partially worked

    Fixed the obvious stuff — bathroom fan, stopped drying clothes inside — and humidity dropped from 58% to 48%. The worst windows stopped dripping but the two north-facing bedroom windows still get light condensation on the coldest mornings (below 25°F outside). I'm told that's borderline normal for single-pane windows at that temperature and humidity, so I'm calling it a win. Probably worth upgrading those two panes eventually but I'm not rushing.

    19 found this helpful

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